The Beauty Dictionary: How BHAs Work

BHA acids are a component that can be found on the packaging of every second product for problem skin. How do they work and can they really be trusted to fight acne and blackheads?

BHAs are a great way to get your mood back if you're regularly plagued by breakouts, enlarged pores, and other typical oily skin problems. And if you still don't know what is hidden under this abbreviation, then we will start with a spoiler: this is the same salicylic acid that has been used to fight acne since Soviet times.

How do BHAs work?

Let's start by explaining why salicylic acid is spoken of in the plural. In the beauty industry, it is classified as a beta-hydroxy acid. The only one that is suitable for application to the skin is salicylic. For the production of organic cosmetics, it is obtained from willow bark, sugar beets or wintergreen leaves. But there is also chemically synthesized salicylic acid. The effectiveness of both types is identical.

BHAs are fat soluble. This means that they are not afraid of the abundance of sebum, which is actively secreted by oily or combination skin. This property distinguishes salicylic acid from AHA acids – the latter dissolve exclusively in water. Therefore, it is considered the best friend of problem skin.

Salicylic acid softens keratin, a protein that is part of the epidermis. Thanks to this, it allows you to regulate keratinization. This is the name of the process of renewal of skin cells: if it is disturbed, it becomes coarse and begins to peel off. BHA-acids remove dead cells and penetrate deep into the pores, cleanse them of sebaceous plugs. They also help:

• reduce inflammation in size and dry them;
• regulate the production of sebum;
• even out the relief and make wrinkles less noticeable.

The most popular format for BHA-acid products for home use is peels. The concentration recommended by cosmetologists is 1-2%. For "advanced" users, an increase of up to 5% is allowed. 

How to use BHA-acids in skin care?

But beta-hydroxy acids aren't just found in peels. Exfoliating lotions, serums and even creams: it is advisable to start introducing acids into your beauty routine with them. You can get burned if you haven't used salicylic acid before and then decide to exfoliate with 5% BHA. Start with toners or serums with 1% acid to minimize the risk of damage to the epidermis. 

Salicylic acid is not a tool that should be in daily care. As a rule, even tonics with a working concentration of BHA, brands suggest using 2-3 times a week. Otherwise, there is a risk of overdrying the skin and harming the protective hydrolipidic layer. 

The use of acids automatically increases the sensitivity of the epidermis to ultraviolet light. To avoid age spots and early aging, be sure to apply a cream with an SPF of at least 30 units before going out. And be sure to consult with a beautician before you start using acids! Especially if you are prone to allergic rashes, rosacea and hypersensitivity.