On the Dark Side: The Complete Guide to Mascara Brush Shapes

Let's talk about all types, shapes and sizes of mascara brushes.

There are many different mascara brushes out there and they make a big difference in how your lashes look. Some are better at lengthening lashes, while others are perfect for curling. In many cases, the type of brush will have more of an impact on the final result than the actual mascara formula.

brush material

Source: @hungvanngo

Nylon

These mascara brushes look fluffy, especially compared to their plastic counterparts. Nylon brushes are generally great for creating volume and length because they are flexible and can grip lashes well. However, for separation, they are not always so good. 

Silicone

Silicone and plastic mascara wands are great for separating lashes. Their bristles are thicker and therefore slightly stiffer. They tend to have a much wider selection of bristle shapes, sizes and densities compared to nylon brushes.

In general, they are great for very thick lashes that are prone to clumping. If you have thin or delicate lashes, be careful as some plastic brushes can damage your eyes. 

Mascara brush size

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When it comes to mascara wand size, the typical logic is that the larger the wand, the thicker the lashes will be. But in reality this is not always the case. 

small

A smaller brush is always better for more precise, slow and gradual application. It allows you to work in small areas and really pay attention to the lash line. Small mascara brushes can easily cover the lashes on the inner corner of the eyes. They cover the eyelashes softly and slowly without forming lumps.

Smaller brushes are better for applying mascara to the lower lash line or to the inner and outer corners. 

Medium

Medium size mascara brushes offer a balance between precision and speed of application. These brushes are suitable for most types of eyelashes and eye sizes, so they are the most common. 

Large

If you want to apply mascara quickly and effectively and don't worry too much about sticking or running, choose a large mascara wand. While larger brushes can be a bit bulky, they can also offer fantastic volume, especially if the tool has long bristles. Their other advantage is that they will help you quickly apply mascara along the entire lash line.

You can combine different sizes of brushes. Start with a small brush for an initial definition, then apply the mascara with a wider brush for volume. 

Bristle size

Long bristles

Brushes with long bristles (usually nylon, but plastic ones are also available) often give lashes maximum volume and coverage. This is because the bristles manage to curve right between the lashes, covering them from all sides. 

short stubble

The short bristles are great if you find it difficult to control mascara and often find smudges on your eyelids. Shorter bristles lengthen the lashes less, which can be beneficial for the lower lash line.

Thick bristles

The denser the bristles, the more volume it will give. It is important to be able to cope with such a brush, because if you do not turn it in the process, lumps are inevitable.

Widely spaced bristles

This type of bristles will perfectly separate the eyelashes. Typically, the bristles on plastic brushes are slightly further apart, so they physically provide more clearance between the lashes, creating a separation effect.

Mascara brush shapes

In addition to the material and size, the shape of your mascara can also affect how effective it is.

Classic cylindrical brush

Most mascara brushes are straight cylinders with rounded or tapered ends. This form is the most convenient to use as it is easy to manage.

You will need to tilt the brush slightly to completely cover the entire lash line, but this should be done for other shapes as well.

Curved tassels

These brushes are usually recommended for giving lashes a slight curl. We're not so sure in practice, but we like curved brushes as they are some of the softest plastic brushes out there.

Hourglass shaped tassel

Like the curved brush, the hourglass brush also has a concave shape, though without the convex curve on the back. They usually come with nylon bristles and are paired with a volumizing formula. Although sometimes the concave shape can lead to a little sticking of the eyelashes.

fan tassels

A rounded, fan-shaped brush is usually made of silicone. The bristles of the fan brush are a bit taut at the base but then spread out, so this mascara manages to both add dramatic volume and separate the most unruly lashes.

Ball tip brush

Ball-shaped mascara brushes covered in spiky bristles are touted as a tool that can cover even the smallest lashes. In practice, the shape of the ball is not as easy to control as a small brush, so the effect is rarely as claimed.  

Comb brush

These brushes are usually small, thin, silicone. The bristles are only on one side. These brushes are known for having a separating effect. But they do not greatly increase the volume and do not lengthen. However, they are great for lower lashes.