Punk aesthetics of the 70s: the secrets of the beauty image of Cruella de Vil
Content
Recently, the premiere of the new Disney "Cruella" with Emma Stone in the title role took place in cinemas. In particular, the audience was pleasantly struck by the beauty image of the heroine, which was worked on by makeup artist and hair stylist Nadia Stacy. The master spoke about the features of makeup and hairstyles for the star of fashionable London in the 1970s.
Not all fantasy villains are as attractive and charismatic as Cruella De Vil. It first appeared in 1956, it was invented by the British writer Dodie Smith. Later, in 1961, the eccentric character was seen on the screens in the Disney cartoon "101 Dalmatians", and in 1996 the studio released a sequel of the same name, where the main role was brilliantly played by the magnificent Glenn Close. Emma Stone's new Cruella is more of a rebel than a classic villainess. From her predecessors, she got black and white hair and a dark side of personality.
What is the movie about
The 2021 film directed by Craig Gillespie tells the story of what turned fashion designer genius Cruella de Vil into a notorious criminal. As we know, the action takes place in London in the 1970s during the heyday of punk culture. The heroine is an incredibly gifted swindler named Estella, who all her life felt like an outcast and suffered bullying. She dreams of making a name for herself in the fashion world, and one day fate brings her a meeting with a very important figure in the industry – the haute couture queen and chief fashion designer Baroness von Hellmann (Emma Thompson), who agrees to take the girl under her wing. One fine day, Estella notices a necklace around the neck of the Baroness, which once belonged to her mother, who died many years ago under mysterious circumstances. Having learned the truth about the death of a loved one,
Despite the fact that the inventive de Ville is, in fact, the main villain of the film, her bright and memorable image surprised many viewers. In particular, the young audience for which the film was created. On our own, we add that not only makeup and hairstyles, but also Cruella's wardrobe turned out to be stunning. With such a passion of the heroine for fashion design, her costumes are one of the most important and striking components of the film.
How the make-up and hairstyles for Cruella were created
As we have already said, the makeup artist and hair stylist Nadia Stacy revealed the features of creating and the meaning of the beauty images of the main character. She admitted to Allure what the main secrets helped her update the image of the iconic villain.
Stacy has experience working on films such as The Favorite and She Who Brings Gifts, where the images of the heroines were independent in terms of creativity for beauty masters. Therefore, initially it seemed to her that perhaps the world of Disney is not for her, because she is more for experimentation and creative freedom.
However, Emma Stone, who played the iconic character Cruella de Vil, is daring and eccentric, so Nadia knew she could recreate the intricate hair and makeup work with a 70s punk aesthetic. Of course, she couldn't say no to Disney.
Beauty image of Cruella de Vil
First of all, Stacy had the task of embodying the classic Cruella beauty look: smoky eye makeup, reminiscent of Dalmatian spots, signature red lips, black and white hair, divided into two parts, and perfectly porcelain skin. It was these signs that everyone remembered from the very beginning of the creation of Cruella.
“When I saw the punk references and all these very different Disney style references coming together in one look of her face, I felt I had done everything right. Then I just continued to improve the image and my confidence that I could cope with this role only grew, "the master of hairstyles and makeup shares her memories.
It took only an hour and a half to create a classic make-up of the main character Stacy. But with the hair was more difficult. Nadia admits that this part of the image was the most time-consuming. Before putting a wig on Emma Stone's head, the stylist dyed the actress's hair in the same black and white colors so that they looked as realistic as possible in the frame.
As for Cruella's smudged smoky eye makeup, the makeup artist went out of her way to make it look like De Vil did it herself, without an entire team of stylists. For this, Stacey used MAC products – Liquilast 24-Hour Liner, a super long-lasting liquid eyeliner, and Eye Kohl pencil in classic black Smolder. “It only looks black, but it comes out a dark grey, smoky shade,” she explains.
MAC Liquidlast 24-Hour Waterproof Liner
MAC Eye Kohl, Smolder
Of course, lips played a decisive role in the beauty image of Cruella. The makeup artist had a range of reds and purples to choose from depending on the respective scene. Top cosmetic products include MAC Retro Matte Lipstick in Ruby Woo, and Nars Powermatte Lip Pigment in London Calling (rich mauve) and Rock With You (deep eggplant).
MAC Cosmetics Retro Matte Lipstick, Ruby Woo
NARS Powermatte Lip Pigment London Calling
NARS Powermatte Lip Pigment London Calling
The master also noted that her personal favorite image of Cruella is the face of the heroine with the inscription The Future (“Future”), for which Stacey herself made a template with carved letters. She stenciled Stone's face and airbrushed onyx pigment. The make-up artist says that it was easy enough to do, which can not be said about Pat McGrath's ruby lip makeup. After all, it took a long time to work with the imposition of several textures to recreate the effect of a precious stone.
In the film, Cruella also wears a black-and-white feather-and-stone mask that Stacey made especially for her.
One of Cruella's most spectacular hairstyles was her Marie Antoinette updo. Nadia Stacy explains her strong childhood impression that little Estella received by chance at an 18th-century costume ball at the Baroness's estate. The historical wig, according to Cruella, should hint to von Hellmann that she is aware of the secrets of her past.
Beauty image of Estella
Before becoming the most glamorous Disney villain, the main character was an aspiring fashion designer named Estella. She had regular red hair and Stacey wanted her to look as simple as possible. This required lighter makeup.
“I needed the audience to believe that this is a girl who lives in normal London in the 70s. We were supposed to fall in love with Estella. We need to bond with her so that when she transforms into Cruella, it's exciting, and we are with her," explains the master.
That's why for the scenes with Estella, the makeup artist gave Stone's face a fresh glow with a clean foundation and simple eye makeup, but with a touch of punk spirit. Thus, Estella looked like a disguised version of Cruella.
When the villain-to-be transforms into her scheming alter ego for the first time, her base makeup turns completely white to show who she really is. Here, Stacey used the Hourglass Vanish Seamless Finish Liquid Foundation three shades lighter than Emma Stone's natural complexion. At the end, the beauty guru applied setting powder and a bit of The Sensual Skin Enhancer by Kevyn Aucoin.
Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer
Hourglass Vanish Seamless Finish Liquid Foundation
Stacy notes that a significant role in how Cruella's makeup turned out, the makeup artist owes Emma Stone herself. The actress devotes a lot of time to her beauty routine and scrupulous attitude to facial skin care, so bright porcelain makeup did not look too theatrical and flat on her.
As the story progresses, Cruella, as a character, undergoes transformation many times. All this was reflected in her makeup and hairstyles, which caused viewers such admiration for the moments of beauty in the film.