Care for porous hair: products that professionals advise

Hair with high porosity is capricious in care. Therefore, in choosing cosmetics, you should trust the opinion of experts. Trichologists Bridget Hill and Michiela Smith told how to care for porous hair and what beauty products will help with this.

Hair with high porosity is considered superporous. In other words, this type of hair absorbs moisture as easily as it can lose it. In addition, such hair can not only absorb a lot of nutrients, but also be hypersensitive to other, less beneficial environmental factors, which can lead to even more damage to the cuticle and hair breakage. 

If you have extremely porous hair, you may feel like your curls never get enough moisture, no matter how many deeply moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and masks you use. “Porous hair is more prone to frizz and frizz. They absorb the product well, but you can still feel very dry," says Bridget Hill, a certified trichologist, colorist and stylist at Paul Labrecque Salon & Spa in New York.

What is hair porosity

Porosity is the ability of hair to absorb, retain and repel moisture. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the outer layer of the hair (cuticle) and the degree of its damage, if we are talking about acquired hair porosity.

Healthy hair with tightly fitting cuticle scales is resistant to the penetration of any chemicals and is called hydrophobic (repels moisture). The surface of such hair is smooth, reflects light and shine. In porous hair, on the contrary, the cuticle layer is raised or completely absent, the hair is matte and easily absorbs moisture, and is considered hydrophilic (absorbs moisture).

“High porosity in hair can either be genetically inherited or result from hair fiber processing, damage from perms, straightening or heat styling,” explains Hill. “High porosity hair means that the cuticles have large gaps that allow moisture to enter freely, but they cannot retain it.” 

Because of this, Hill recommends a 3-step treatment for his clients to get moisture into and stay in the hair thanks to fillers that "seal" the porous cuticle of the hair, which is unable to retain moisture on its own. “Fillers are deep conditioning agents. If you have this type of hair, consider treatments and masks, Hill says. ─ To seal the outer layer of the hair, consider leave-in creams. And to keep moisture in them, rely on oils.

What affects hair porosity

“Factors such as poor nutrition, poor circulation to the scalp, improper care, perms and heat styling can affect the hair shaft and its structure,” says Brooklyn-based hairdresser, trichologist and founder of hair care platform MMSMITH.CO Michiela Smith (Mickiela Smith).

When it comes to caring for porous hair, the wrong products can only make matters worse. Thankfully, Smith and Hill have shared their favorite high porosity hair products. From shampoos and conditioners to leave-in styling creams and oils, below you will find beauty products that really work and help you achieve the results you want.

Shampoos for porous hair

The choice of shampoo for porous hair must be approached carefully. For example, Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil Shampoo is suitable for those with dry and coarse hair. “This is a great cleanser that softens strands and easily removes buildup to help detangle tangles easily,” Smith says. She also recommends LivSo Shampoo for those with dry scalp, psoriasis, or a flaky scalp combined with dry hair. 

Another good choice is Malin + Goetz Gentle Hydrating Shampoo. It is light, sulfate -free, does not wash out the paint, retains volume, strengthens weakened and thin curls. Its amino acids provide a gentle yet thorough cleansing. Panthenol and seaweed extract “help protect and strengthen color-treated and chemically damaged hair. Ideal for those who wash their hair frequently.

Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil Shampoo, 400ml, Estimated Price $58

LivSo Moisturizing Shampoo, 250 ml, estimated price $19

Malin + Goetz Gentle Hydrating Shampoo, 236 ml, estimated price $26

Conditioners for porous hair

Philip Kingsley No Scent No Color is a colorless, fragrance-free neutral conditioner that is safe for sensitive scalps. “While not specifically advertised as a dry hair product, it does contain ingredients that improve hair bounce (stretchability), which greatly reduces breakage,” says Smith. The expert also recommends the Original & Mineral Original Detox Conditioner because it "refreshs well and gently cleanses the strands while improving their elasticity."

Original & Mineral Original Detox Conditioner, 350 ml, Estimated Price $30

Philip Kingsley No Scent No Color Gentle Conditioner, 200ml, Estimated Price $24

LivSo Moisturizing Conditioner, 237 ml, Estimated Price $18

Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil Conditioner, 250ml, Estimated Price $59

Leave-in conditioners and detangling creams

Sealant creams that do not require rinsing are great for styling hair with high porosity after deep conditioning. “Due to its molecular structure, the leave-in cream leaves an additional protective barrier on the surface of the hair, thus helping to retain moisture, and also smoothes the cuticle scales,” says Hill. Her picks are Design Essentials Moisturizing Leave-In Leave-In Conditioner and Phytodefrisant PhytoLisse Leave-In Smoothing and Straightening Balm.

Olaplex N°6 Bond Smoother Revitalizing Styling Cream is an indispensable assistant to Michiela Smith, who describes it as "intensely moisturizing". It detangles wet curls and speeds up drying time, which is "so necessary for porous hair."

For those with tangling hair issues, Smith also recommends O&M Know Knott. It uses cold-pressed oils to keep "hair soft and conditioned while combing and styling." This formula can also be used before washing your hair. “Conditioner is great for dry, split ends,” adds Smith.

Olaplex No. 6 Bond Smoother, 100 ml, Estimated Price $28

Design Essentials Moisturizing Leave-In Conditioner, 355g, Estimated Price $20

Kinky-Curly Knot Today Leave In Detangler, 236 ml, Estimated Price $13

O&M Know Knott Conditioning Detangler, 250ml, Estimated Price $30

Deep action masks and conditioners

For hair with high porosity, it's important to frequently use specialized fillers, better known as deep conditioners, says trichologist and colorist Bridget Hill. “These products are able to penetrate the cuticle at a deeper level, helping to deliver some type of polymer to the hair fiber,” she explains. In other words, these conditioners provide the best conditions for retaining moisture, as well as "temporarily align the cuticle scales", which helps to further retain moisture inside the hair. Hill has her top of the range: Paul Labrecque Repair Condition Protein Mask, Rene Furterer Karite Nutri Nourishing Mask, and Olaplex Elixir for Dry and Damaged Hair.

The best choice in this category, according to Smith, is the Olaplex 0 Intensive Bond Building Treatment Kit, which is an intensive two-step pre-cleanse and strengthener that "nourishes strands for maximum recovery." Her second recommendation is the Oway Hair Reconstruction Mask, which is great for restoring the protein in the hair and sealing the cuticles. Meanwhile, the Philip Kingsley Stimulating Scalp Mask adds a protective layer to the surface of the scalp, increasing the blood circulation needed for healthy hair follicles. As an alternative, Smith recommends Philip Kingsley's Elasticizer Extreme Super Hydrating Mask due to its lightweight, protein-packed formula. which helps to increase the elasticity of the hair. “Elasticity is what gives your hair bounce and strength, so it breaks less. Dry, depleted hair tends to be more prone to breakage, notes the hairdresser. 

Olaplex No. 3 Hair Perfector, volume 100 ml, estimated price $28

Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Deep-Conditioning Treatment, 100ml, Estimated Price $29

Olaplex No. 0 Intensive Bond Building Hair Treatment, volume 155 ml, estimated price $28

Paul Labrecque Repair Condition Restorative Protein Mask, 200ml, Estimated Price $36

Rene Furterer Karité Nutri Intense Nourishing Mask, 200 ml, Estimated Price $48

Oway Rebuilding Hair Mask, 150 ml, estimated price $34

Philip Kingsley Trichotherapy Stimulating Scalp Mask, 2 x 20 ml, Estimated Price $29

Styling Products

Styling products are another important category in porous hair care. Bridget Hill's first proposal in this regard is Rene Furterer's Intensive Nourishing Shea Butter Hair Cream, which penetrates deeply, protects against external aggressions, replenishes moisture and fatty acids, fills in damage, increases strength, and restores the integrity of the hair structure. Phyto Phytodefrisant Botanical Straightening Balm also makes styling easier by intensely moisturizing dry strands. 

As a final touch, the expert advises using Queenie hairspray from O&M. It perfectly fixes the hairstyle, protects the strands from moisture and does not weigh them down due to its weightless texture. 

Rene Furterer Karité Nutri Intense Nourishing Day Cream, 100 ml, estimated price $34

PHYTO Phytodefrisant Botanical Straightening Balm, 50ml, Estimated Price $30

O&M Original Queenie Firm Hold Hairspray, 300 ml, Estimated Price $30

Oils for porous hair

According to Hill, oils for porous hair are a must-have in hair care. They cover the scales of the hairs well and “seal” the moisture inside them. "Oil molecules have the ability to wrap around the hair fiber to prevent moisture loss, but it's important to use the right oils for your hair type and texture," she adds.

Hill recommends Rene Furterer 5 Sens Dry Oil, Paul Labrecque Color Finish Polish & Seal Droplets, and Design Essentials Silk Essentials, which adds incredible shine, seals cuticles, and locks in moisture during heat treatments. .

Rene Furterer 5 SENS Enhancing Dry Oil, 100ml, Estimated Price $38

Paul Labrecque Color Finish Polish & Seal Droplets, 60ml, Estimated Price $24

Design Essentials Professional Grade Silk Essentials, 118 ml, Estimated Price $20